{"id":14280,"date":"2019-06-03T11:49:19","date_gmt":"2019-06-03T11:49:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/?p=14280"},"modified":"2019-06-03T11:49:19","modified_gmt":"2019-06-03T11:49:19","slug":"stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/","title":{"rendered":"Stefano Cerveni: manzo stellato"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"5b9f9fcabed12e1b7386184972120b4d\" data-index=\"1\" style=\"float: none; margin:10px 0 10px 0; text-align:center;\">\n<script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\r\n<script>\r\n  (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({\r\n    google_ad_client: \"ca-pub-2794626404475357\",\r\n    enable_page_level_ads: true\r\n  });\r\n<\/script>\n<\/div>\n<p><strong>Da Rovato al centro di Milano. Dalla nonna alla Michelin. Dalla trippa al bowl vegetariano. Dall\u2019anguilla psichedelica alla focaccia 12. La provincia e la tradizione, che ti portano in cima al mondo e nel posto pi\u00f9 chic della citt\u00e0 pi\u00f9 cosmopolita d\u2019Italia. <\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Tanta gavetta, ma ne \u00e8 valsa la pena, perch\u00e9 ora si gusta il successo con la consapevolezza di aver creato qualcosa di solido e duraturo, di gustoso ed intrigante. Due Colombe, Terrazza Triennale, Gud: l\u2019uomo ha seminato bene e ora raccoglie le soddisfazioni, gastronomiche ed economiche.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14281\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/31148f7f-cfac-4681-9fdc-a32736878845\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?fit=1989%2C2982&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1989,2982\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?fit=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?fit=640%2C960&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14281\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845-200x300.jpeg?resize=334%2C500\" alt=\"\" width=\"334\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?resize=768%2C1151&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?resize=683%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 683w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?w=1989&amp;ssl=1 1989w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/31148F7F-CFAC-4681-9FDC-A32736878845.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 334px) 100vw, 334px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>S\u00ec, <strong>Stefano Cerveni<\/strong> di Rovato, provincia di Brescia, \u00e8 un uomo felice e realizzato: lo sa. Non si ferma mai e non vuole scendere dalla giostra delle stelle e del divertimento gastro-chic. Sa evolversi, trasformarsi, adattarsi in base ai format e alla clientela, capisce al volo come ammaliare la clientela e come farla tornare da s\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14292\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/a24ae3e0-443e-43f3-a7d9-3e812a01203a\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?fit=2929%2C1953&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2929,1953\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?fit=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?fit=640%2C427&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14292\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A-300x200.jpeg?resize=500%2C333\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?resize=768%2C512&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?resize=1024%2C683&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A24AE3E0-443E-43F3-A7D9-3E812A01203A.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Parentesi: solitamente quando parli di uno chef lo fai dopo aver assaggiato parte o gran parte dei suoi piatti iconici, noi invece dobbiamo ancora andarci alle Due Colombe, di conseguenza l\u2019intervista non ha alcun riferimento ad una sua creazione stellata, sarebbe assurdo parlare per sensazioni e per sentito dire: certo, lo fanno in tanti e in tanti lo faranno, ma non ci pare un buon motivo per parlare a vanvera. Di conseguenza niente frasi e metafore sulle cotture, i profumi, sulla morbidezza del suo manzo e via dicendo; promettiamo che ci andremo a breve e che torneremo sull\u2019argomento, d\u2019altronde i suoi piatti fanno gola anche a noi, eccome. Abbiamo invece assaggiato le sue pietanze proposte alla Terrazza Triennale e al Gud.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14282\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/8ce7ce7e-c849-40f9-838a-df323d280995\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?fit=2999%2C2486&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2999,2486\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?fit=300%2C249&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?fit=640%2C531&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14282\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995-300x249.jpeg?resize=500%2C414\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"414\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?resize=300%2C249&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?resize=768%2C637&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?resize=1024%2C849&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/8CE7CE7E-C849-40F9-838A-DF323D280995.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Per ora domande e risposte su vita, carriera, filosofia e progetti.<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Partiamo dalla nonna Elvira e dalla sua osteria.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>30 coperti, pi\u00f9 nove stanze da letto. Si mangiava tanta trippa, bigoli e lumache. La gente veniva per il mercato del bestiame, si fermava da lei per tutto il tempo necessario, era un via vai incessante, l\u2019attivit\u00e0 era fiorente, io sono cresciuto l\u00ec, giocavo con la pasta fresca, era tutto scritto.<\/em><\/li>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\"><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Difatti ha iniziato l\u00ec.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Si, con mio padre Giuseppe, che poi si \u00e8 ritirato, lasciandomi fare di testa mia, poi per\u00f2 nel 2000 ho trasferito il ristorante in un vecchio mulino.<\/em><\/li>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\"><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Lei passa per uno che va in giro e spende parecchio dai colleghi.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Ero un figlio di pap\u00e0, mi consideravo un fenomeno e invece non lo ero. Quando misi piede al Miramonti l\u2019altro cap\u00ec che avevo ancora tantissima strada da fare. Idem quando andai da Heinz Beck, fu in quei momenti che mi resi conto di voler lavorare per avere la stella. Per la verit\u00e0, inizialmente con Heinz ci siamo conosciuti qui in Franciacorta, nel 2006: venne per un evento a base di culatello e bollicine, ci siamo messi a parlare fino alle sei del mattino. Mi incoraggi\u00f2: \u201cHai molto da dire, non avere paura di esprimerti e di prendere la tua strada\u201d.<\/em><\/li>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\"><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>La stella arriva nel 2009.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>A quei tempi l\u2019assegnazione era diversa, l\u2019anno prima ricevevi la cosiddetta nomination e se tutto andava per il verso giusto, se rispettavi le attese, quello successivo la conquistavi. Fu un anno particolare, perch\u00e9 la cerimonia ebbe luogo nel ristorante di Berton, al Trussardi alla Scala: lo spazio era ridotto, cos\u00ec che non c\u2019era posto per tutti, di conseguenza la Michelin ci ha chiamati solo nella stessa mattinata della cerimonia, centellinando gli inviti.<\/em><\/li>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\"><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Si \u00e8 fatto un\u2019idea sul perch\u00e9 ha preso la stella?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>L\u2019ho presa quando ho fatto la mia cucina. Io sono uno che mangiava la trippa a colazione, ho dovuto prima capire chi ero e cosa ero in grado di esprimere.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14289\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/a882ca45-b51c-4ecf-ad2c-c6a4da6252bf\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?fit=4096%2C2732&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"4096,2732\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?fit=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?fit=640%2C427&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14289\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF-300x200.jpeg?resize=500%2C333\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?resize=768%2C512&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?resize=1024%2C683&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A882CA45-B51C-4ECF-AD2C-C6A4DA6252BF.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Cosa si mangiava da lei ai tempi della nomination?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Alcuni piatti li trovi anche ora: i bigoli al pestom, un rag\u00f9 a base di salame fresco e vino rosso, poi i ravioli di coniglio ala bresciana, l\u2019anguilla psichedelica, il manzo all\u2019olio. I gourmet chiedono i piatti classici, i clienti fidelizzati preferiscono le novit\u00e0, per cui posso tenere in carta sia i piatti di una volta che le nuove creazioni.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14290\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/fb326f4b-ba58-4533-8520-ed685e7d626a\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?fit=2982%2C1989&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2982,1989\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?fit=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?fit=640%2C427&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14290\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A-300x200.jpeg?resize=500%2C334\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?resize=768%2C512&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?resize=1024%2C683&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/FB326F4B-BA58-4533-8520-ED685E7D626A.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Come potremmo caratterizzare la sua cucina di quei tempi?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Il pranzo della domenica. Abbondare con il sugo, perch\u00e9 le mie radici sono queste, sono il nipote di mia nonna.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>In quel periodo quasi tutti imitavano Ferran Adri\u00e0, lei come si \u00e8 comportato?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>La clientela mi ha fatto capire cosa e come avrei dovuto proseguire, ovvero non cambiare. Mi dicevano: \u201cBello, buono, ma la terrina ce l\u2019hai ancora?\u201d. Certo, sono rimasto pure io ammaliato dalle schiume e dal resto, per\u00f2 non le sentivo mie, per nulla.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Forse ha incontrato Marchesi al momento giusto.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Venne per tre volte qui da me, la prima ordin\u00f2 uno dei risotti e a fine cena disse: \u201cBuono, ma non farti troppe pippe\u201d. Mi ha aperto gli occhi. Io invece andai da lui per la prima volta nel 1999, lo ricordo come ora, spesi 300.000 lire. Alla fine ci siamo messi a parlare, quasi non ci potevo credere, Gualtiero che mi dedicava mezz\u2019ora.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Cosa vuol dire oggi proporre i piatti della tradizione?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Significa cercare di alleggerirli, ma non tanto. La gente ama ancora quei piatti di una volta, tipo la zuppa di cicoria, la pasta e fagioli, la trippa di vitello in umido. Ho la fortuna di poter fare quello che voglio, qui alle Due Colombe.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Subito dopo la stella lei si trasferisce nel borgo della famiglia Gozio.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Avevo appena preso la stella, ci siamo incontrati ad un evento, io facevo il catering: mi hanno chiesto se avessi il piacere di andare assieme a loro e vedere un borgo che stavano ristrutturando. Appena l\u2019ho visto mi sono innamorato perdutamente, ci stavano lavorando da nove lunghi anni: sono ancora l\u00ec.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14287\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/bf2b71ee-ddad-4085-a13d-370c15516ba9\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?fit=2128%2C1416&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2128,1416\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?fit=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?fit=640%2C426&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14287\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9-300x200.jpeg?resize=500%2C333\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?resize=768%2C511&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?resize=1024%2C681&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/BF2B71EE-DDAD-4085-A13D-370C15516BA9.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Progetto Triennale, com\u2019\u00e8 successo?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Da una parte io cercavo nuovi sbocchi, perch\u00e9 la ristorazione oggi impone avere pi\u00f9 attivit\u00e0, per poter stare a galla. Per\u00f2 non avrei mai pensato di poter aprire un ristorante nel Parco Sempione, \u00e8 come stare a Central Park, chi l\u2019avrebbe mai immaginato? Vidi il posto a ottobre, era tutto cos\u00ec romantico, fra foglie color ruggine e il resto, una poesia. Mi sono detto: \u201cSarebbe un delitto non provarci\u201d.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Qui \u00e8 diverso rispetto alle Due Colombe.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Eccome. Target diverso, numeri diversi, la cucina anche. Non \u00e8 stato facile trovare la quadra, ho avuto bisogno di tempo per capire cosa vogliono i milanesi e cosa no. Siamo entrati in punta di piedi, per tentativi, ci \u00e8 voluto del tempo. Poi ho avuto la fortuna di trovare un ragazzo come Matteo Ferrario, l\u2019attuale resident chef: gran parte dei piatti sono suoi, ci sentiamo e ci consultiamo ogni giorno.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Poi \u00e8 nato il Gud.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Si, sempre con le stesse persone con le quali abbiamo aperto la Terrazza Triennale, ormai siamo inseparabili (gli altri soci sono Ugo Fava e Marco Giorgi, ndr). Il penultimo aperto, zona City Life, \u00e8 un gioiello, voleva essere un chiringuito da spiaggia, con sdraio, social table e il resto, \u00e8 andata e va oltre le nostre pi\u00f9 rosee previsioni, facciamo 600 piattini e 400 cocktail durante il weekend. Gli altri Gud sono il Darsena, ovvero l\u2019ex Social Market Fish and Chips, poi quello aperto alla Stazione e infine il Gud di Via Eustachi. Ho pensato a dei piattini veloci, golosi e gustosi, chic, ficcanti, vedi il chirashi che qui chiamiamo Cirasci Milano, ovvero riso Carnaroli cotto con il metodo del sushi, ma poi condito con delle materie prime mediterranee, oppure il Sea-ciliano, a base di mazzancolle e pesto di pomodoro, fatto da noi. Praticamente sono dei bowl, un\u2019evoluzione del pok\u00e9, poi si aggiungono le focacce e i panini, super studiati e infinitamente deliziosi.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"14286\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/61a48a30-d67d-4321-a658-8c860bc3d3ad\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?fit=2250%2C1500&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2250,1500\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?fit=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?fit=640%2C427&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-14286\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD-300x200.jpeg?resize=500%2C333\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?resize=768%2C512&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?resize=1024%2C683&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/61A48A30-D67D-4321-A658-8C860BC3D3AD.jpeg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Che momento vive la ristorazione italiana?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>\u00c8 un momento non esaltante, Milano a parte. \u00c8 dura, durissima.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>C\u2019\u00e8 un personaggio per il quale vorrebbe cucinare?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Per Zucchero e per mia moglie.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>C\u2019\u00e8 stato un episodio che le \u00e8 rimasto impresso, in tutti questi anni come ristoratore?<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><em>Si, una lettera ricevuta da una neo sposa: \u201cChef grazie, mi hai salvato il matrimonio\u201d. In pratica lei e il marito stavano per annullare le nozze: l\u2019incantesimo si era rotto, mentre cercavano il ristorante giusto avevano capito di avere dei punti di vista diversi sulla vita. Come per magia, sono riuscito a farli tornare insieme. Il buon cibo riconcilia perfino i nemici, figuriamoci gli innamorati.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>(di Dominique Antognoni)<\/strong><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/groups\/salaecucina\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"13480\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/01\/18\/maitre-giovanni-celentano-lascia-savoy-beach-marzo-guidera-la-sala-del-relais-blu-massa-lubrense\/image-5777\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59.jpeg?fit=940%2C379&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"940,379\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"image\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59.jpeg?fit=300%2C121&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59.jpeg?fit=640%2C258&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"myFoto aligncenter wp-image-13480 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59-300x121.jpeg?resize=300%2C121\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"121\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59.jpeg?resize=300%2C121&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59.jpeg?resize=768%2C310&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/image-59.jpeg?w=940&amp;ssl=1 940w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<!--CusAds0-->\n<div style=\"font-size: 0px; height: 0px; line-height: 0px; margin: 0; padding: 0; clear: both;\"><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Da Rovato al centro di Milano. Dalla nonna alla Michelin. Dalla trippa al bowl vegetariano. Dall\u2019anguilla psichedelica alla focaccia 12. La provincia e la tradizione, che ti portano in cima [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":14284,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[53,73],"tags":[379],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Stefano Cerveni: manzo stellato - Il Blog di chef&amp;ma\u00eetre<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.chefemaitre.com\/blog\/blog\/2019\/06\/03\/stefano-cerveni-manzo-stellato\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Stefano Cerveni: manzo stellato - Il Blog di chef&amp;ma\u00eetre\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Da Rovato al centro di Milano. 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